CBR600RR - Concept of the track rebuild
The Strategy
As the weight - which you have removed - cannot fail , but a tuned Engine can , we decided to let the CBR600RR Engine as it is .
A couple of Questions ( see below ) we discussed , to find out what's really necessary on a track Bike . And on the other hand which functions / solutions could be added , considering if we'd use a different ECU . Then I checked the range of lighweight aftermarket Parts available for the RR and decided , only to focus the Sections ,
which are not covered by aftermarket or focused normally , as :
- Carbon Fueltank with lowered center of gravity
- new designed Fueltank-Cover
- a Tailsection , which is Subframe and Tail in one Piece ( Carbon-Monocoque )
- a free programmable ECU , which is able to control a lot more than just the Engine ( see more : Motec ECU )
- the " little " Bits :
lighweight Engine Internals ( Clutch / new Alternator )
lightweight rearbrake
lightweight new Generation Battery ( we're testing at present )
low weight front calipers ( as the Tociko's w/ 1360 gr. are bit heavy )
rearsets which do not brake at a high/lowside
So , to track down the usual lightweight / performance rebuilt stuff was kinda Stage 1 , where we " just " put our developments on top.
Aftermarket Stuff we used :
Ohlins Fork (CBR 1000RR )
Ohlins Shock
Gilles triple clamps (CBR1000RR ) with different offset
PVM Mag Wheels
Carbon Fairing
Carbon Air-Runners
LSL Handlebars
Brakes / Master ISR
Discs F/R ISR ( Special for TC Sensor - grooved )
Motec M800 ECU
AIM Display
Bosch Igniter
Sensors/Monitoring see : Motec ECU
USUAL LOW WEIGHT REBUILDS
When you're attempting to reduce the weight of a Bike significantly , you have to forget the usual way of thinking .
Usually people look around the entire Bike , and then start to think , what could be exchanged , what could be made or bought as replacement Part to save some ounces . The common stuff then will be exchanged, as :
Wheels Magnesium ( still with the OEM heavy cush drive ? )
Exhaust Titanium
Fairings , incl. Tailsection and Fueltank Cover , Fender and Hugger by Carbon stuff ( sometimes Glassfiber fairings are even heavier than stock)
Bit of Aluminum or Titanium Screws
Rearsets ( some aftermarket rearsets are even heavier than stock)
Then of course the suspension stuff , replaced or reworked.
But - maybe having done those above mentioned modifications - you have a good basic start for your rebuilt , to make it really light .
A couple of Questions
As I'm doing rebuilds for the track , regardless - I's ask a few Questions :
- How long are you able to ride fast and concentrated ? More than 25 Minutes , maybe 30 Minutes ?
- How many Liters of Fuel you need during this Time ? Somewhat 4,5 - 5,5 Liters ,or ?
- So why you carry all the Time a heavy steel Fueltank , which has a capacity of ~ 18 Liters , with wasted space of approx 8 Liters ?
- You ride with no passenger on track , so why such a massive Subframe ?
- You don't have lights or Fans running , so why such a large Alternator , do you still have Fans mounted ?
- You normally ride at 10°C-30°C Temps on track , so why all the hoses which automatically adjust Idle-speed ?
- All those hoses for Water routed to the Waterpump and back, can't they be shortened somehow , to save weight ?
- Do I need a Thermostat ( w/housing ) ?
- How many of the wires inside my wire harness do I really need ?
- Generally : how many of those hoses running back an forth and somewhere do I really need ?
- How much weight could be shaved by an other Battery ?
- The Rearbrake , what's the weight of that , do I use it , can't that be replaced ?
- The Brakes front , how much they weight , some lighter replacement stuff out there , discs too ?
- Axles of wheels , steel stock - shouldn't they be Titanium or Aluminum ?
- What do I use more on track , more Power , or less weight ?
- Could it make more sense to spend money in weight saving instead of Engine-tuning ?
- Is it possible to add Features like Traction Control ,Data-Logging and so on , as used in GP and WSBK ?
- Do I really need a Engine-Starter ?
- Steel clutch Plates inside the clutch , why not Aluminum ?
- Am I bound to the OEM ECU ?
- Do I need a fuse-Box ?
- Do I have to care about what they do in Race Series ( where they are not free to do what they would like to ) ?
Just a couple of Questions , hard to decide , which mod has most efficiency and which one is minor .
So to answer most of the Q's above , you really need to strip down the Bike first to check , what's all the stuff doing , which is hidden behind the Plastics , stored or mounted below the Fueltank , inside the Engine .
And this is exactly , what I always do , when I start a rebuilt .
Rebuild it from the Inside to the outside , not reverse.